Holidays in the Holy Land are both inspiring and depressing. Today I had the opportunity to go to the Old City of Jerusalem for Holy Saturday. In the Orthodox tradition, this day is full of celebration in anticipation of Easter morning. I am told in years past that thousands of local Christian communities with international pilgrims from around the world would gather in the Old City for worship and celebration. Processionals with dozens of different bands and Boy Scout troops (with boys and girls) would lead the way in preparation for Easter. Today is particularly special because it is the only day of the year when the sacred light or “Holy Fire” – the fire that lights the tomb of Christ in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre – comes out into the world. The fire from the tomb is spread from candle to candle all over the church and throughout the streets of the Old City – a symbol of the way that Christ’s light is spread into the world. However, holidays in the Holy Land are also stark reminders of the reality of military occupation and the darkside of the conflict between Israel and Palestine.

Signs of the fortress… open conflict between the army and Christians attempting to reach the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to worship. One elderly woman was weeping as she attempted and was unable to pass through the barrier on her way to the church.

Leaving home today, I was told that we may not be able to enter into the Old City. In the past several years, military presence has been so strong that only a few hundred people have been allowed to enter. The city is surrounded by Israeli police and military and there are checkpoints at every entrance…

Today the gates of the Old City were blocked by guards and police who restricted entrance to the Sacred City. When we arrived at the New Gate there were several dozen people pushing toward the gated entrance – many (if not most) of whom were told that entry was not possible. Absolutely no foreigners were allowed. Most of the people trying to get in were local Palestinians. I was with two Jerusalemites – who graciously told me to be quiet and not speak any English. Fortunately, they (and thus me) were allowed entrance through the throng. I heard stories today of people who traveled around the world to be able to be a part of the Festival of Holy Fire – only to be turned away at the gates. One woman, a Syrian Arab living in Australia, has been rejected three years in a row. It is her dream to be able to worship on Holy Saturday in the Church of Holy Sepulchre. I was privileged to be one of the few who made it into the Old City even though we were restricted by several checkpoints along the way. We were not able to go to the church, but we were able to see some of the days celebrations. As we were waiting for the parade to come by the section where we were standing, I was overcome by the reality of “force” present with the military. Why are people not allowed to travel freely to worship? Today is one of the most holy days for Christian Arabs who live in Israel, Jerusalem, and the West Bank. And the pressure put upon them, limiting their movements – even their worship, is difficult to describe. The military presence was only in the city from early morning until 2 p.m. – the military presence begins during the specific hours when worship is scheduled and ends when all of the parades and celebrations are supposed to have finished. A friend described the scene as a military fortress – a terribly accurate description. I have never quite seen anything like it…

However, I saw a glimpse of what things might have been like a decade ago… I saw young boys and girls wearing beautiful Boy Scout uniforms smiling while having their pictures taken with their parents. I saw young and strong men and women playing the bagpipes and shouting over and over again “Sabt el Noor, Ou Ayyadna, Ou Ayyadna Issael Masih” which means “Saturday of Lights & the holiday, the holiday of Jesus the Messiah.” I saw the Holy Fire – taken from the sacred space at the Tomb of the Holy Sepulchre passed along candle by candle through the crowds… a beautiful image… Light in the midst of darkness… May the Light of Christ truly come to the Holy City…

Participants sharing the Holy Fire as the Light is spread

throughout the Old City of Jerusalem.

I saw many things today. I was reminded once again of the fortitude of the Palestinian people… a people removed from their homeland who have been displaced since the 1948 war… Many of the residents of the Holy City of Jerusalem do not have any nationality; no status of citizenship. Most do not hold passports – they are not Jordanian – they are not Israeli – they are Palestinian. Yet the world has still not yet recognized the degree to which they have sacrificed… and the degree to which – day by day – they continue to sacrifice. Today, as I saw the Palestinian residents of Jerusalem gather for worship… I am reminded of the great hope that Easter represents. As the sun breaks forth upon Easter morning, we are reminded “He is Risen”… Christ was not defeated on the cross… the worldly powers did not have their way… injustice will not reign for ever… there is hope on the horizon… May it be so for the Holy City of Jerusalem… and may it be so for the people of Israel and Palestine.

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