Kanechiwa Japan!

Kanechiwa, a common greeting and (I think!) literally translated as “good day/good afternoon”.

Japan is amazing… and Tokyo is an absolutely incredible city! Today I had the great privilege of being introduced to Tokyo, Japan’s capital since 1868 and the Meiji Revolution. My American hosts graciously secured a local to act as my tour guide for the day who provided a perfect combination of social connection, historical context, and fun facts along the way. Our day was intense and invigorating… We took the subway so many times I think the trains are ending the day tired! Here is a summary of our adventures:

The Ginza Yon-chome Crossing described by Lonely Planet: "famous department stores by day, a neon canyon by night."

 The Ginza District: Known for its shopping and highend retail shops… this area is the equivalent (although magnified!) of the Magnificent Mile in Chicago, Collins Avenue in Miami, or Rodeo Drive in L.A. The department stores are full of shiny (and VERY expensive) things. The glamorous district was fun to see. We didn’t see the imperial palace because it is not visible to visitors (although I hear the surrounding gardens are lovely).

  

The other ”thing to see” in Central Tokyo is the Tsukiji Central Fish Market - the largest in the world. Why we missed the fish throwing, bargaining, auction and early morning action (from 6-8 a.m.) – we did get to see the remnants of the morning ritual. The sushi restaurant where we ate lunch (and all of the restaurants in that area) are renowned for their “fresh” fish. Caught in the a.m. and served almost straight out of the water. I think I may have seen my sushi wiggle!

The view from the observatory at the Metropolitan Government Building.

From Ginza we traveled to Shinjuku and the famous Shinjuku Station – the busiest station in the world! (Are you starting to see a trend here?!?). Shinjuku hosts many of Tokyo’s skyscrapers. The Metropolitan Government Building has a free observation floor which provides an amazing view of the city. 

From Shinjuku we went to Harajuku… a neighborhood that hosts the famous Meji Shrine and the center of “pop culture” on Takeshita Avenue.

Meiji-Jingu (Meiji Shrine) built in 1920 is considered by many to be Japan's "grandest"... the original was destroyed in WWII and rebuilt in 1958. There are 100,000 trees that surround this sacred place in the heart of Tokyo.

 

Takeshita Dori described by the Lonely Planet as representing "both Toykyo's propensity for booth teenage kitsch and subcultural fetish"... A crazy and fun place to take a stroll!

This little device (or a version thereof) is found in almost every bathroom in Tokyo. The buttons have pictures in case one can't read the traditional Chinese script. The options even include music to cover over any undesirable sounds that might emanate... Most of the bathrooms also have disinfectant spray that is used to clean the toilet seats before they are used.

  
 In between each of these neighborhood visits there were all kinds of little cultural observations along the way. Many women carry wash cloths to wipe their faces as the weather is so incredibly humid, it is helpful to have a cloth at hand to wipe the sweat away. The bathrooms are unbelievable… I have been impressed by the cleanliness of a city which hosts millions and millions and millions of people.
  
The day ended with a stop at Shibuya Crossway… which captured attention in “Lost in Translation.” Again quoting the Lonely Planet (they sat it so well!): “Adjacent to Hachiko Plaza is arguably one of the coolest intersections you will ever see in your life.” Having been (both at dusk and in the dark) – I was certainly not disappointed! Huge neon lights, enormous video screens (think Times Square on steroids)… When we arrived, I felt like I was in the heart of Tokyo! While in Shibuya, I also had a cross-cultural experience while spending a little time at a Japanese Izakaya (think the Japanese equivalent of an Irish pub) – a great atmosphere and wonderful place to rest my feet at the end of an intense and wonderfully fulling day in Tokyo.
 

My guide (and now friend!) Daichi at the Izakaya "Doma-Doma" in Shibuya. Before eating the Japanese say "eetadakeemas" which means "we humbly receive."

 

Shibuya Crossing at the end of a long day before heading back to where I am staying in Higashi Kurume.

 

Tokyo: An Introduction

It is now 5:06 a.m. in Tokyo and the sky is beginning to brighten. There is a 13 hr time difference between EST… so I am wide awake and ready to see the capital city of Japan. My final destination is Singapore where I will be joining 700 leaders from around the world for the third annual 4/14 Global Summit for child advocates. Compassion International is one of the main sponsors. I will be a part of the cohort with several others from the Middle East. I much look forward to being with them again!

I am in Tokyo because it was significantly less expensive to have a few day layover here then to fly in and out of Singapore directly. I am staying with the parents of a college friend of mine from InterVarsity days at the UofC. I am already amazed at the “small world stories” of connection with the Christian community. The woman I am staying with attended a workshop that I taught at Covenant Midwinter a couple of years ago – so we have met before… and didn’t even know it! There are many other mutual Chicago connections including dear friends from the Circle Church community (later Circle Urban Ministries) and others. I love being reminded that I am only a tiny piece in a huge community and network of followers of Christ.

Tomorrow (or today!) I am going to be exploring Tokyo. What I know about Japan is only very limited thanks to my “world history” courses… and most of it relates to Pearl Harbor, WWII, and other more recent political events. Already it is clear that there is so much to this amazing country… a richness of history and life… from the 13 million people in Tokyo proper to the 33 million people living in its suburbs. A land of gardens and gastronomical delights… I am eager for sushi!

It has also been sobering to be reminded of the devastating earthquake and tsunami that happened here on March 11th… almost six months since its occurance. Significant progress has been made in rebuilding some of the areas the most affected (hundreds of miles from Toyko) but the memory and suffering is still fresh on people’s minds… and there continues to be much work to be done. I am provoked to pray alongside of the people of Japan… particularly as I learn from them over the next few days during my short visit.

Extremism, Terrorism, and the Norway Attacks

Similar to many of my Western counterparts, my first thoughts when I first heard about the attacks in Norway went to extreme Islamic terrorism. I had heard about the growing tensions in Scandinavia because of the increasing Muslim population and cultural shifts arising as a result. Thus, when I heard through a friend that a Norwegian school had been attacked, I assumed the attack to be a response from a Muslim terrorist group. I asked if it was Al Qaeda or such other organization. My friend responded, “Probably.” Thus, you can imagine my surprise when I saw the picture of the suspect who appeared very Scandinavian with fair skin and complexion.

Anders Behring Breivik (Courtesy NYT)

According to the New York Times (NYT), the attacks in Oslo killed at least 92 people and the orchestrator left behind “a detailed manifesto outlining preparations and calling for Christian war to defend Europe against the threat of Muslim domination.” If I had read that statement out of context, I would think one was talking about the Christian Crusades of the 12th century. Anders Behring Breivik was described by police as a right-wing fundamentalist Christian. He is said to have been obsessed with guns and the “threats of multiculturalism and Muslim immigration” (NYT). This was a far cry from the Islamic extremism that I had initially suspected of being responsible for the crime. Honestly, I am ashamed that my immediate assumptions when hearing of an “attack” turned to extremism in the Arab world. This led me to want to learn more about the motivations for the horrible incident and how news media is reporting about it.

In an article from today in Al Jazeera (English edition), Norway’s Mass Murder and the Mass Media, the opening statement says: “When news of the bomb blast and shooting first broke out in Norway, media organizations the world over were quick to suggest that the people behind the attacks were Islamic terrorists.” Apparently I was not the only one. Interestingly, Al Jazeera continues and states that when news organizations found out the attacks were not caused by Islamic extremists, but rather a “white, anti-Muslim Christian” the word “terrorist” was quickly replaced by “extremist”. Interesting. Why? Al Jazeera doesn’t expound, but these circumstances seem a telling reminder of the way many in the Western world view Islam. When westerners (more specifically whites) complete a heinous crime the media tends to write about it differently than if the perpetrator was non-white, particularly if Arab, even more so if they are Muslim. Scores of articles have been written about the growing anti-Arab sentiments in the Western world and the increasingly powerful Islamophobia that is sweeping through “Christian” nations. For example, see MJ Rosenberg’s The New Rhetoric of Islamophobia (also in Al Jazeera). Some of this is certainly an effect of post-9/11… however, I believe this trend should be a cause of great concern.

Ha’aretz, one of Israel’s leading newspapers, writes of Iran’s perspective, blaming Zionism, on the Norway attacks. Haaretz quotes a lead Iranian official: “The world should be on alert of the Zionist regime attempts to create deviation with Christianity and spread Christian Zionism.” I haven’t yet read, nor do I intend to, the more than thousand pages left behind by Anders Behring Breivik further outlining his motivations. I do not know if he is a Zionist. Could be. More importantly, his actions, astoundingly horrific, sadly remind us that extremism exists on all fronts – regardless of Christian, Muslim, or whatever other belief system. May Christians discard our own superiority complex and embrace moderation as we seek peace with our brothers and sisters across religious divides.

The Reality of Religious Tensions in Egypt?

One of the challenges in coming back to the United States has been the way happenings in the Arab World are recorded by American media. Many of the “topics” in the news are similar… however, often U.S. based reports provoke further fear and discomfort in regard to the dynamics at play in the Middle East. During my recent travels, many family members and loved ones have expressed “fear” at my safety… particularly because “Muslims are killing Christians all over the Arab World”. These are some of the sentiments that have been expressed… and sadly, they are very untrue. There are instances of violence… but in general, particularly in Egypt, there is still an overall sense of religious solidarity and commonality… even bridging the often wide divides between Christians and Muslims. Here is a report from Paul-Gordon Chandler, Rector of St. John’s Church in Maadi, Cairo. He has been living in Egypt for more than ten years and I respect greatly his opinion and interpretation of what is happening there on the ground.

Recent religious sectarian conflict: Many of you have written about some of the recent sectarian conflict here in Cairo that the international media has reported on, and were concerned for our safety, for which we are most grateful. Writing about “persecution of Christians” can be difficult as can perhaps be imagined. Both sides are often at fault, to one degree or another, and also the contexts for any conflict are each so varied. Regretfully, both in Egypt and the West there are groups that tend to “exaggerate” the tensions and the gravity of the situation, thereby sadly hurting the legitimacy of some of the true problems that do exist here and that need to be seriously addressed. In short, our experience is that the general inter-religious solidarity within the majority of the populace is deeper than it ever has been. And many wonderful and encouraging things are taking place, in the midst of some of the recent tensions, and I will share a few of them below.

The recent conflicts have largely involved the Salafis (a ultra conservative fundamentalist sect with Sunni Islam heavily influenced by Wahabism from Saudi Arabia, that even has a hard time accepting the Grand Imam of Al Azhar…who is the spiritual and intellectual leader of Sunni Islam, the majority of Muslims in the world) and who are known here as “counter-revolutionary thugs”…those wanting to create conflict to destabilize the country for their own gain. Both can be dangerous groups. However, thankfully, both are minorities in terms of the population. The most recent major conflict (May 7) was the burning of two churches (St. Mina and Church of the Holy Virgin) here in Cairo in an area within the Giza governorate called Imbaba, It is an extremely poor neighborhood and one of the country’s hottest spots of Islamic militancy. The reasons for the conflict are complex. It is important to understand that the Coptic Orthodox Church does not allow divorce. So it is quite common for Coptic women to convert to Islam in order to get out of abusive marriages. Recently this happened with two spouses of Coptic priests. This is of course something the Coptic Church doesn’t acknowledge, but it is common knowledge here. This was the initial reason for the conflict; a Coptic women, married to a priest, left to live with a Muslim man, then left the Muslim man to return to the Coptic husband, and the Muslim man shared publicly that his “wife” had left him and was being held hostage by the Christians. Obviously, this caused a lot of tension in the neighborhood. It was believed the Copts where holding the woman in the Church of St. Mina, and so Salafis Muslims came to “free” her. It is also known that sometime the Copts do “hold” women at times who do this, or want to do this type of thing. Just weeks before this recent church burning incident for example, some Coptic brothers killed their sister and her son over her alleged conversion to Islam and marriage to a Muslim man.

In regard to the recent conflict, in fear of the Muslim mob gathering in front of the church, and most were Salafis, a gun went off…said by the investigation team to have been fired first by a Coptic Christian from the nearby roof, so the Salafists and thug mob went to get guns themselves and then returned and eventually burned the church and another one nearby. Tragically, seven Christians and five Muslims died, most by gunshot, and hundreds were injured, some seriously. The subsequent investigation team learned that the Salafi mob, mixed with counter-revolutionary “thugs” believed there was a cache of guns in the church. It is also important to remember that these kinds of tension almost exclusively take place in highly uneducated areas and hence rumors quickly become “factual truth,” and then can become “threats” very quickly.

One thing that is helpful to understand when hearing about religious conflict here in Egypt is often the Copts (the historic Christians in Egypt) see themselves here as a “different people,” and not just a different religion, and therefore one has to see the their pope (the pope of the Coptic Orthodox Church) as not just a religious figure, but also as a political one…quite similar in many ways to a “king” of the Copts. The Copts see themselves as the descendents of the ancient Egyptians prior to the Islamic incursion in the 7th century. This of course further complicates any tensions that surface. In reality, in today’s context both the Copts and Muslims are considered “Arabs”. And of course one cannot therefore tell the difference between them. It is this perception of themselves that can often heighten the tensions.

Photo by Ben Robinson

Positive outcomes to the tragedy: The reaction by the Egyptian masses was again one of shock and deep sadness. It resulted once again in proactive mass demonstrations of religious solidarity and unity, which in our experience here, is the true heart of the majority of the Egyptian people. It was quite moving to see veiled Muslim women with the cross painted on their niqab (face veil) parading throughout the streets…saying “we are all ‘one hand’–Muslim and Christian.” Additionally, as a result of this most recent tragedy, some very encouraging developments have taken place.

1) The transitional government, also in shock about this recent conflict, with a desire to ease the sectarian tensions, promised within 30 days to draft both a unified law for building houses of worship and a law criminalizing the use of religious slogans in electoral campaigns (to keep religious propaganda out of the political sphere by fundamentalist groups on both sides). Regarding the new houses of worship building law, in the past, Christians have been discriminated against (under the Mubarak regime) in obtaining the right to build new churches or restore current churches. It was very difficult to get permission to do so. However, mosques did not have the same constraints. Now the government is planning to equalize it. This was unheard of pre-revolution.

2) The Cabinet (the transitional Prime Minister’s Council) announced that they will reopen churches which were closed for “security reasons” under the Mubarak regime. Faithful to their promise, within one week’s time, the Prime Minister Esam Sharaf, in his first ruling on this subject, issued a decree to have 16 churches re-opened, scattered around six governorates. This was most encouraging news and a wonderful sign.

There are of course some really amazing stories. For example, those that are currently restoring the icons within the churches in Imbaba, Cairo that were recently burned are largely Muslim. It is seen by them as an act of love and solidarity. That is a brief overview of the quite complex recent conflict. In short, yes, there are real tensions…with some tragic consequences, especially in some slum areas. However, everyday there is more and more encouraging news.

See also my recent article in Prism magazine (of Evangelicals for Social Action):

Mae Elise Cannon. “A Revolution Unites: Will Interfaith Harmony Be Part of the Liberation of Egypt’s People.” Prism. Vol. 18. No. 3. (May-June 2011):20-23; 44.

Mohammad: Jerusalem, the Land, and the Way Things Used to Be

Yesterday, I had the opportunity to get to know a Muslim named Mohammad from the Old City of Jerusalem. He is the proprietor of a new hotel in Jericho who graciously gave me a ride back to Beit Hanina in Jerusalem.

The ride from Jericho to Jerusalem is one of my favorites. It is through the Judean wilderness – the desert. Every time I travel along that road the mountains of sand, rock, and stuble are different. Depending on the time of day, the light reflects different colors across the miles of wilderness. The desert of Judea is where John the Baptist preached and cried out “Make way for the Lord.” The mountains surrounding the city of Jericho are where Jesus was tempted in the wilderness. And somewhere along that same road is where the story of the Good Samaritan took place. What remarkable history.

As we were traveling, Mohammad and I started to talk about Jerusalem. He grew up in the Old City and told me stories of what things used to be like when he was young. He told me some stories that he had heard from his grandparents about the way things were during the early 20th century. More than a hundred years ago… Jerusalem used to be a city where Jews, Muslims, and Christians lived side by side in peace. Mohammad’s family lived in the Muslim quarter of the Old City. They had neighbors who were Arab Christians. When his great-grandfather was a baby, his mother was very close to her Christian neighbor who had a baby around the same time. Mohammad told me that the two little boys were brought up together. Their families were so close that the Muslim little boy was fed milk from the Christian mother’s breast. Just as the Christian little boy was fed by Mohammad’s great-great-grandmother. As Mohammad told me this story, I was a bit incredulous. When I asked if he was speaking literally, he affirmed that the story was true. Because both Mohammad’s great-grandfather and his Christian neighbor were raised in this way, taking milk from each other’s mother, they are brothers. Such was the way things used to be in the Old City of Jerusalem.

Similarly in regard to their Jewish neighbors… Mohammad’s grandmother had a Jewish neighbor with whom they were very close. So much so that his grandmother learned Yiddish (pronounced ee-dish in Arabic). Every week during Shabbat, the Jewish family could not light the oil for their lamps because it would be a violation of the Sabbath. Thus, Mohammad’s grandmother – week by week by week – had the role of bringing light to the Jewish family who were her neighbors. Such was the way things used to be in the Old City of Jerusalem.

As Mohammad was telling me these stories, I must confess, I was a bit enraptured. The images he created gave me a glimpse of what things might have been like generations ago in this Holy City. One of the final stories that I heard from Mohammad is a sort of fable… I am surprised that I had never heard it before. It is about the land:

There once was a man who lived in a village. He was Jewish. The Jewish man believed that the four corners of the land belonged to him. There was another man who lived in the same village who was an Arab. The Arab believed the same four corners of land belonged to him. Because the men were fighting over the land, they decided to bring a wise man to settle their dispute. The wise man could have been a sheik or a priest or a rabbi. The wise man came and met with the two men. The Arab man told the wise man, “This land belongs to me.” The Jewish man told the wise man, “No. This land belongs to me.” The wise man was very gifted. He could hear quiet whispers of truth and knew how to interpret the whispers of creation around him. The wise man told the two men – enough of your fighting about the land. Let us hear what the land has to say about all of this. The wise man then went to the center of the four corners of the land. He laid himself down on the earth and put his ear to the ground. He lay their quietly for a long period of time. The two men began to become impatient and they said, “Who does the land say it belongs to?” The wise man told them to be quiet… that he needed to hear the whispering of the land. After even more time had passed the wise man got up from the ground. The Jewish man said “Does the land say it belongs to me?” And the Arab man said “Does the land say it belongs to me?” The wise man responded… “No. The land says that you both belong to it.”

As I have lived here in the land for the past five or so months… I am starting to feel like I too belong to the land. The land is holy. Holy for Jews. Holy for Muslims. Holy for Christians.

Holy Saturday in Jerusalem: Military Fortress and Holy Fire

 
Many of the young men and women who were marching today wore clothing with the Jerusalem cross – also known as the Crusaders Cross. The four smaller crosses are supposed to be a symbol of the four Gospels and representative of the four different directions (North, South, East, West) that the Gospel went forth from Jerusalem.

 Holidays in the Holy Land are both inspiring and depressing. Today I had the opportunity to go to the Old City of Jerusalem for Holy Saturday. In the Orthodox tradition, this day is full of celebration in anticipation of Easter morning. I am told in years past that thousands of local Christian communities with international pilgrims from around the world would gather in the Old City for worship and celebration. Processionals with dozens of different bands and Boy Scout troops (with boys and girls) would lead the way in preparation for Easter. Today is particularly special because it is the only day of the year when the sacred light or “Holy Fire” – the fire that lights the tomb of Christ in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre – comes out into the world. The fire from the tomb is spread from candle to candle all over the church and throughout the streets of the Old City – a symbol of the way that Christ’s light is spread into the world. However, holidays in the Holy Land are also stark reminders of the reality of military occupation and the darkside of the conflict between Israel and Palestine.

Signs of the fortress… open conflict between the army and Christians attempting to reach the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to worship. One elderly woman was weeping as she attempted and was unable to pass through the barrier on her way to the church.

Leaving home today, I was told that we may not be able to enter into the Old City. In the past several years, military presence has been so strong that only a few hundred people have been allowed to enter. The city is surrounded by Israeli police and military and there are checkpoints at every entrance…

Today the gates of the Old City were blocked by guards and police who restricted entrance to the Sacred City. When we arrived at the New Gate there were several dozen people pushing toward the gated entrance – many (if not most) of whom were told that entry was not possible. Absolutely no foreigners were allowed. Most of the people trying to get in were local Palestinians. I was with two Jerusalemites – who graciously told me to be quiet and not speak any English. Fortunately, they (and thus me) were allowed entrance through the throng. I heard stories today of people who traveled around the world to be able to be a part of the Festival of Holy Fire – only to be turned away at the gates. One woman, a Syrian Arab living in Australia, has been rejected three years in a row. It is her dream to be able to worship on Holy Saturday in the Church of Holy Sepulchre. I was privileged to be one of the few who made it into the Old City even though we were restricted by several checkpoints along the way. We were not able to go to the church, but we were able to see some of the days celebrations. As we were waiting for the parade to come by the section where we were standing, I was overcome by the reality of “force” present with the military. Why are people not allowed to travel freely to worship? Today is one of the most holy days for Christian Arabs who live in Israel, Jerusalem, and the West Bank. And the pressure put upon them, limiting their movements – even their worship, is difficult to describe. The military presence was only in the city from early morning until 2 p.m. – the military presence begins during the specific hours when worship is scheduled and ends when all of the parades and celebrations are supposed to have finished. A friend described the scene as a military fortress – a terribly accurate description. I have never quite seen anything like it…

However, I saw a glimpse of what things might have been like a decade ago… I saw young boys and girls wearing beautiful Boy Scout uniforms smiling while having their pictures taken with their parents. I saw young and strong men and women playing the bagpipes and shouting over and over again “Sabt el Noor, Ou Ayyadna, Ou Ayyadna Issael Masih” which means “Saturday of Lights & the holiday, the holiday of Jesus the Messiah.” I saw the Holy Fire – taken from the sacred space at the Tomb of the Holy Sepulchre passed along candle by candle through the crowds… a beautiful image… Light in the midst of darkness… May the Light of Christ truly come to the Holy City…

Participants sharing the Holy Fire as the Light is spread

throughout the Old City of Jerusalem.

I saw many things today. I was reminded once again of the fortitude of the Palestinian people… a people removed from their homeland who have been displaced since the 1948 war… Many of the residents of the Holy City of Jerusalem do not have any nationality; no status of citizenship. Most do not hold passports – they are not Jordanian – they are not Israeli – they are Palestinian. Yet the world has still not yet recognized the degree to which they have sacrificed… and the degree to which – day by day – they continue to sacrifice. Today, as I saw the Palestinian residents of Jerusalem gather for worship… I am reminded of the great hope that Easter represents. As the sun breaks forth upon Easter morning, we are reminded “He is Risen”… Christ was not defeated on the cross… the worldly powers did not have their way… injustice will not reign for ever… there is hope on the horizon… May it be so for the Holy City of Jerusalem… and may it be so for the people of Israel and Palestine.

Dar El Awad: Kids Alive in Beirut

When I was in Lebanon, one of the most exciting ministries with whom I was introduced was Kids Alive (or Dar El Awad).

Pictures from some of the children involved in the Kids Alive program in Lebanon.

Kids Alive has been working in Lebanon for 62 years and has a school and residential program for troubled children. The Lebanese school has students from Kindergarten through 6th Grade with 75 children attending. The residential program is not an orphanage as the children return to their families on the weekend and the program is designed to help rebuild relationships between troubled children and their families of origin. Most of the children in the residential program are not Lebanese, but are Sudanese, Palestinian, Sri Lankan, or some other minority. In Lebanon, the darker the color of one’s skin, the more vulnerable a child (or adult) is to abuse and discrimination. Sadly, this color differentiation seems to be the case in many parts of the world. One of the primary ways the school is funded is through child sponsorship with 450 global donors and funders from all over the world. The staff of the school are all Christians although children are of all different religions. The children in Dar El Awlad have daily chapel services where the love of Jesus is shared through teaching and worship. Fifty percent of the residential children are Muslim. The programs at Kids Alive were among the most impressive that I saw in Lebanon. The school is committed to working with a terribly marginalized community by providing education, support, and care for children who are deeply troubled. There are many amazing avenues for involvement including teacher training, special programs for children, and also involvement in a new project that is beginning through Kids Alive (and Heart for Lebanon) in the south.

For more information about Kids Alive visit: http://www.kidsalive.org/around-the-world/middle-east/lebanon/.

Amman, Jordan: A little Biblical history…

The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is a small country with a population of only around 6.5 million people – for reference, that is a smaller population than the city of New York. During the past few months, I have been in and out of Jordan several times. Each time I visit, I have come to appreciate the country more and more. During my first trip to Jordan (Spring of 2009), I did not get the best impression. Our tour guide was obnoxious – I don’t mean to be so blunt – but it is true. Our driver was a maniac – we saw our lives flash before our eyes several times during that trip! In case you think I am exaggerating, the accident that we got into on the Kings Highway helps to prove my point. When we went to visit Mt. Nebo (where Moses died), one of the Jordanians at the gate made some rude comments to me including “Hey baby, my name is Moses… let me lead you to the Promised Land.” An original pick-up line, if nothing else. All that to say, I wasn’t all that impressed. However, some of the biblical history of Jordan caught my attention. Below is something that I wrote after returning from that first trip which tells a little bit about some of the things we learned about Amman, the capital of Jordan. 

The flag of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Interestingly, this flag is the same as Palestine's except for the colors are in different order and the Palestinian flag does not have a star.

April 19, 2009

One of my favorite things about our time in the Holy Land was that almost every place we visited had not only one story… but perhaps two or three that happened in the very same place. The Judean Wilderness is where the Israelites traveled under the leadership of Joshua toward the town of Jericho… where David ran and hid from Saul amongst the rocks and the stones… the same place where John the Baptist had his ministry… the same place where Jesus was tempted… the same desert where the Dead Sea scrolls were found along the coast of the Dead Sea. This blew my mind!

We arrived in Amman, Jordan and traveled toIsrael following a similar path to the way that the Israelites would have entered the promised land. Amman is one of the oldest and longest inhabited cities in the world. In the OT – it is referred to as Rabbath Ammon, the capital city of the Ammonites (around 1200 BC).

The Ammonites were descendents of Lot– the nephew of Abraham. In Genesis 19, we learn a bit about their origin. Sodom and Gomorah had been destroyed… Lot’s wife had died – you may remember she turned back to look at the destruction of the two cities and was turned into a pillar of salt. Lots two daughters were afraid. One of their fears was that everyone had been destroyed – so they would not be able to have children. So… what did they do (this is actually a rather horrific story) – they got their father drunk and both slept with him. They both became pregnant and each had a son. One daughter had Moab– who became the Moabites and the other daughter had Ben Ammi – whose people were known as the Ammonites. Amman, Jordan still carries their name even to this day.
But my favorite story about the city ofAmman has to do with King David. The King of the Ammonites had died – and the kings son took over the throne. 2 Samuel 10 verse 2 tells us that David decided to show kindness to the new king – so he sent out a delegation to express sympathy to the son (whose name was Hanun) concerning his father. But… some of the Ammonite commanders didn’t trust David (by the way – they were known to be a ruthless bunch)… they thought that David was sending his people to them to spy on them. So, they decided that they were going to disgrace David and his men… So, do you know what they did? I can’t believe that I had never read this story in the Bible before… The Ammonite king and his commanders seized David’s men and shaved off half of each man’s beard… but that wasn’t all! They cut off their garments at the buttocks… and sent them back to David. 

During that time – the only time a man’s beard would be cut off was if a man was in mourning – or if he was a slave. This was a defaming thing to do to David’s delegation. So much so that when David received word of it – he told his men to wait in Jericho until their beards could grow back so that they would not return toJerusalemin shame. Cutting off the clothes of the men – especially at the buttocks – made David’s men look ridiculous and was similarly a sign of shame.

Such was my first encounter with the Biblical history of Amman… a story with which I was not at all familiar prior to my visit! All of this reminds me of God’s words to the Israelites in Deuteronomy 2:18-29: “When you come to the Ammonites, do not harass them or provoke them to war, for I will not give you possession of any land belonging to Ammonites. I have given it as a possession to the descendents of Lot.”

Farouk Eldeiry: Women & Ordination

Today was a very special day. Not only is it the last day of my 2+ weeks in Egypt, it was also the day that Rev. Dr. Farouk Eldeiry proclaimed his views (publically!) about women and ordination. Permit me to tell you a little bit about Pastor (Assis) Farouk: He is the father of Fady, Joy, and Sylvia… I was introduced to him through Fady in November 2010 during my first trip to Egypt. I learned that he was the founding pastor of Ibrahimi Evangelical Church in Alexandria in the 1960s and served there through 2001. He has a Master of Arts in religion and a Masters of Theology… and also an honorary doctorate. He has taught Systematic Theology (oh, my!) at the Evangelical Seminary in Cairo for the past several decades. He is currently launching a new ministry called Anwaar (lights) which focuses on responding to the needs of the poor in Malawy and Deir Abu Hennis. As I have gotten to know Farouk over the past several months, I have been amazed at his energy and passion. He is in his 70s and is starting a new ministry that takes time, energy (and money!); and is committed to mobilizing the church in Egypt to respond to the needs of the poor and the oppressed. Farouk and I have had many lively discussions – including academic “debates” about predestination, the revelation of God, and other questions of theology. Whenever Farouk has mentioned (remotely or directly) the question about women in leadership and the ordination of women – I have quickly said, “I don’t want to talk about it. Talk to Dr. B!”

I have pointed Pastor Farouk in the direction of Gilbert Bilezikian (Dr. B), a mentor, friend, and brilliant New Testament scholar who taught at Wheaton for many years. Dr. B wrote the book “Beyond Sex Roles” in 1985 and has since been a stalwart advocate of women in ministry. Dr. B, in his writing, teaching, and every day life, has been an amazing support… and he has the biblical expertise, training, and patience to continually address the theological and practical questions surrounding women in ministry. I do not!

I have found being a woman in ministry a very painful (and often lonely) journey. There are limited places where women are free to completely use their gifts without question in regard to gender – sometimes things are worse in the U.S. than in the Middle East! On a weekly (if not daily basis), I am reminded of these limitations. I could tell many painful stories: People in the community thinking that I was the church secretary and not one of the leaders on pastoral staff; The surgeon in a hospital where I was serving as a pastoral chaplain who asked me if it was Haloween because I was wearing my clerical collar – even though it was February!; Not being able to serve communion because the church does not acknowledge that women are free to officiate ceremonies of such spiritual significance… I could go on… These are just some of the challenges that women continue to face as ministers of the Gospel around the world today.

Pastor Farouk, while always supportive of women using their gifts, has consistently repsonded to the question of women and ordination by affirming women, but then asserting that he is “undecided” about whether or not women should be ordained. In fact, I heard him say these very words to me last week when we were ministering together in Upper Egypt. Thus, I was shocked by the events that unfolded today!

Today I was invited to preach at Attarine Evangelical Church in Alexandria, Egypt. In speaking with the congregation, I talked about what an exciting time this is in Egypt and around the Arab world as revolutions are continuing to overturn authoritarian regimes and challenge current political authorites. As the youth of Egypt have cried for righteousness and justice; we as Christians must look to see what the Scriptures say about these two things. I shared about my love for Egypt and encouraged the church to engage with their community as the Scriptures have commanded us to do.

Pastors Farouk Eldeiry, (me!), and Radi Atalla Iskander.

After I finished preaching the sermon, Pastor Farouk had the opportunity to share a few words. He shared in Arabic and the man sitting next to me translated the words that were being spoken… Pastor Farouk affirmed that we as the church must respond to the current situation in Egypt. We must care for our personal and corporate relationship with God and also be actively engaged with the needs of society (my sermon was about righteousness and justice). As he affirmed the words in the Scripture message, he also made a declaration – for the first time – about his views of women and ordination. He stated that the authority by which we speak does not rest in the person sharing the message – but rests in the authority of Christ – and that it doesn’t matter if the person delivering the word is a man or a woman, as long as the truth of God is being declared. Pastor Farouk publicly declared that he affirms women in any role of leadership within the church including that of eldership and a pastoral role. As he shared his words of affirmation, I was very moved. His declaration was totally unexpected and a great gift to me! Pastor Farouk is a leader in the Christian community in Alexandria and throughout the Arab world. He has taught hundreds of seminary students, many of whom are now pastors, and has great influence. His public affirmation of the ordination of women and women in pastoral roles is a very significant one! Serving alongside of this man the past two weeks, I have been honored by his humility and his committment to caring for the needs of people around him. Although some may consider him to be more ”advanced” in age… Farouk is young in spirit. His affirmation of all people – including women – has greatly encouraged my heart.

For further resources about women in ministry:

Beyond Sex Roles: What the Bible Says about a Woman’s Place in Church and Family, Gilbert Bilezikian (Baker Academic, 2006) 

How I Changed My Mind About Women in Leadership: Compelling Stories from Prominent Evangelicals (Zondervan, 2010)

Discovering Biblical Equality: Complimentarity Without Hierarchy (InterVarsity, 2005)

Another great resource is Christians for Biblical Equality (CBE): www.cbeinternational.org.

Tahrir Square: At Your Service…

When we first arrived in Tahrir Square early this evening, I felt this overwhelming sense of the significance of the place. I was moved to tears. There is much work to be done concerning Egypt’s future; but goodness, what has been accomplished! People are coming alongside of one another, helping, supporting, and working together. Weekly there are community efforts to pick up garbage off the streets and participate in other such beneficial activities. When traffic gets bad, someone from the neighborhood comes out into the middle of the street to direct it. People greet one another and are openly nice to one another! There are lots of smiles, laughter, and an energy in the air… even still almost two months since Mubarak’s resignation.

Fady and Farouk Eldeiry and me at Tahrir Square!

One of my favorite moments of the day… Farouk had parked his car in a busy area near Tahrir Square. There were some security/police officers in the area who he had asked if they might keep an eye on it. Before the revolution, the police would require a “tip” to take care of these kinds of things. Watching cars and such is a bit outside of their job description, so they expected to be compensated. When we returned from our walk in the area, Farouk went to tip the security guards. They refused his tip and said “We are at your service…” This is one small (but significant!) sign of how things have changed as a result of the Revolution. It may sound silly, but there is almost a “spirit” in the air that is very different from the last time I was in downtown Cairo! You can feel excitement, generosity, and a feeling of commraderie that is unique to this time and place in the history of Egypt.

The more time I spend here the more I love Egypt!